Rose (garden and landscape roses)

About Rose (garden and landscape roses)

Garden roses are thorny flowering shrubs and climbers. Hybrid teas carry one large, shapely bloom on a long stem for cutting; floribundas are shorter and bloom in clusters; shrub roses like Knock Out are tough, disease-resistant landscape plants that bloom all season. The old apothecary rose has its own entry.

Hardiness depends on the type: Canadian Explorer and Minnesota-bred shrub roses survive zone 3 winters (UMN), while hybrid teas and tea roses are more tender (University of Missouri). UF/IFAS grows roses across Florida and suggests grafted plants there be on Fortuniana rootstock.

When to plant

Timing is counted from your average last spring frost (and first fall frost). Sow & Tell works out the actual dates for your ZIP code.

Plant bare-root roses while dormant (late winter or early spring in most places; December-January in Florida) and container roses any time the soil can be worked (Clemson, Oklahoma State, UF). Set the graft union just above the soil in the South (Clemson, UGA) or 2 inches below in cold areas (Missouri). Space hybrid teas and floribundas 2-4 ft apart, vigorous types 4-6 ft, climbers 6-10 ft (Oklahoma State).

Soil

Loose, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter; Oklahoma State puts the ideal pH near 6.0. Morning sun helps dry the leaves and cut disease (Clemson).

Mix plenty of organic matter into loose, well-drained soil (Clemson suggests about one part peat moss or rotted manure to three parts native soil; UGA at least 4 inches of organic matter); Oklahoma State targets pH about 6.0.

Feeding

• When plants leaf out in spring (Oklahoma State: about April 1, or 4-6 weeks after planting): rose fertilizer or slow-release shrub fertilizer; UGA uses 16-4-8 or 12-4-8. UGA: about 3 Tbsp per plant scratched into moist soil in a circle around the plant, then watered in; follow a soil test.
• After each flush of bloom (UGA: monthly March-September): the same fertilizer. Repeat after each bloom cycle; Clemson suggests about half rates in June, July and August.
• Late season: stop feeding. Stop about six weeks before your first fall frost (Clemson); Oklahoma State stops after July 15. Composted manure can be used as a top dressing.

Late feeding keeps plants soft going into winter. Wet leaves in the evening invite black spot; water at the soil with a soaker hose (Clemson).

Harvest

Repeat bloomers flower from late spring to frost; once-bloomers and many climbers bloom only in spring. Deadhead by cutting just above a five- or seven-leaf leaflet, and stop deadheading late in the season so plants can harden (Clemson, NC State). Prune repeat bloomers in early spring as buds swell; prune once-bloomers right after they flower (Clemson).

Varieties (21)

Pests to watch for

Japanese beetle, Rose chafer, Aphids, Twospotted spider mite, Thrips, Leafhoppers, Sawflies (garden sawflies), Eriophyid mites (rust, bud, blister and gall mites), Mice (house mice and deer mice), Rose sawflies (roseslugs), Rose midge, Four-lined plant bug, Tobacco budworm (geranium or petunia budworm), Bagworm, Winter moth

Diseases and problems

Black spot, Powdery mildew, Rose rosette, Rust, Botrytis blight, Cane canker, Crown gall, Nitrogen deficiency, Rose mosaic

In the kitchen

Rose hips can go into jelly, jam and tea (NC State).

Keeping it: Recut stems and change the water every couple of days; keep the vase cool and away from fruit.

Safety: The ASPCA lists roses as non-toxic; the main hazard is the thorny canes, so wear gloves.

Pets: Not toxic to dogs, cats or horses (ASPCA)