Japanese knotweed
Polygonum cuspidatum
| Type | Broadleaf |
|---|---|
| Life cycle | Perennial |
| Family | Buckwheat family (Polygonaceae) |
| Origin | Introduced from elsewhere |
| Most common in | Northeast, Pacific Northwest |
About
A tall, bamboo-like perennial from Asia that forms dense stands up to about 11 feet tall. Its deep, far-reaching rhizomes make it one of the hardest weeds to get rid of, and tiny root pieces can start new plants.
Also called Mexican bamboo, Japanese fleeceflower, crimson beauty, fleeceflower
How to identify it
Look for
Stems are hollow and jointed like bamboo, with red or purple nodes and often dark speckles; new spring shoots are bright red to purple. Leaves are alternate, spade- or heart-shaped with a flat, squared-off base, about 4 to 6 inches long. Sprays of small greenish-white flowers come from the leaf joints in late summer.
Look-alikes
True bamboo has slender, papery leaves and woody stems that stay up all winter. Giant knotweed and the hybrid Bohemian knotweed look very similar but often have larger leaves (up to a foot long) with rounded bases; manage them the same way.
Where it grows
Stream banks, damp roadsides, yard edges, forest edges and disturbed lots; it also tolerates poor, acidic or salty soils.
When
Red shoots come up in spring, stems reach full height by early summer, and it flowers in late summer before frost kills the tops.
How it spreads
Mostly by rhizomes that can run 23 to 65 feet sideways and at least 7 feet deep; pieces about an inch long can regrow, and some stands also make seed.
Most common in
| Northeast | Very common here |
|---|---|
| Southeast | Common here |
| South Central | Occasional here |
| Midwest | Common here |
| Great Plains | Occasional here |
| Mountain West | Occasional here |
| Southwest | Occasional here |
| Pacific Northwest | Very common here |
| California | Occasional here |
| Alaska | Occasional here |
| Hawaii | Occasional here |
Where it is regulated
Minnesota lists it as a noxious weed on its Control list.
What to do, gentlest first
Start at the top. Weed killers are a last step; always read and follow the label.
Never move soil or stems from a knotweed patch Prevent
Rhizome fragments ride along in fill dirt, on equipment and in flood water. Act as soon as you see new shoots, before a colony builds a big root system.
Clean tools and boots before leaving the patch.
Cut canes and dig roots, again and again By hand
Cut the canes and dig out as much rhizome as you can, repeating whenever it regrows. Expect it to take years; small, young patches are the only ones digging can clear.
Let cut stems dry in the sun, then bag them. Never compost knotweed stems or roots, since pieces can regrow.
Knotweed psyllid (not available to gardeners) Natural enemies
A tiny sap-feeding insect, Aphalara itadori, was approved for release in the US in 2020 and has been released in several states since. It may weaken stands over time but is not sold and is not expected to kill plants.
Glyphosate after flowering Conventional spray
Spray regrowth with glyphosate from after flowering until the first frost, when the plant is moving sugars to its roots. Cutting in June and spraying the shorter regrowth at least 8 weeks later makes coverage easier. It often takes 3 to 5 years.
Read and follow the label. Many lawn and brush killers also harm garden plants, so keep spray and drift off anything you want to keep. Use a product labeled for use near water if the patch is by a stream. Imazapyr can harm nearby trees through their roots.
Uses, wildlife and pets
For wildlife
Bees, ants, butterflies and beetles visit the late-summer flowers.
Pets
Not listed as toxic by the ASPCA
Sources
- extension.psu.edu
- fs.usda.gov
- extension.umd.edu
- extension.umn.edu
- extension.psu.edu
- extension.psu.edu
- plantsservices.sc.egov.usda.gov
- aspca.org
Photo: Photo: Cayambe / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 (CC BY-SA 4.0). Photo resized for the web.
Planting dates and advice are general guidance; check with your local Cooperative Extension office for your area.