Plum

Prunus domestica (European plum), plus Japanese, American and hybrid plums (Prunus spp.) · Rose family (Rosaceae)

At a glance
Hardiness zones	3 to 9
Sun	full sun
Water	moderate
Life cycle	perennial
Frost	Hardy: takes frost
Soil pH	6.0–7.0
Spacing	144 to 264 inches

About Plum

Plums come in several groups: European plums for eating fresh or drying, Japanese plums mainly for fresh eating, and very cold-hardy hybrid plums. Most need a pollination partner, and stone-fruit pests like plum curculio and brown rot take some management.

NC State lists European plum for zones 4-9, and some hybrid plums rate good in zone 3 (University of Minnesota). European plums need about 700-1,100 chill hours below 45 F and Japanese plums 500-900 (UGA).

When to plant

Timing is counted from your average last spring frost (and first fall frost). Sow & Tell works out the actual dates for your ZIP code.

Set out plants: up to 4 weeks before the last frost

Plant in early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work (UNH); in Georgia, plant dormant trees in February or early March (UGA). Hybrid plums bear 2 to 5 years after planting a 1- or 2-year-old tree (University of Minnesota). Thin fruit 30-45 days after bloom to one every 2-4 inches (UGA).

Soil

Deep, well-drained, fertile soil; plums tolerate little wet or heavy soil and may yellow (iron chlorosis) in alkaline soils (Utah State).

Aim for a pH of 6.0 to 7.0; test the soil, work in any nutrients it lacks, and clear perennial weeds before planting.

Feeding

Each spring (May in New England) from the second year on, only if growth is weak: balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10, or nitrogen fertilizer such as 20-0-0. Follow a soil test; about 1/2 lb of 10-10-10 for young trees and 1 lb for bearing trees (Utah suggests 1/2-1 cup of 20-0-0 for trees under 5 years, 1-2 cups for older), spread from the drip line to about 16 inches from the trunk.

Skip feeding when young trees already grow 10-20 inches a year (older trees 8-10 inches); too much fertilizer does more harm than too little.

Harvest

Ripe plums soften and turn from green to blue, purple or red depending on variety; green types often get yellow highlights (Utah State).

Plums give one crop a year, ripening in late summer to early fall depending on cultivar, as the fruit softens and colors. When the crop is heavy, thin fruit to 4-6 inches apart once frost danger is past.

Varieties (35)

Variety	Type	Notes
South Dakota	American plum	Medium fruit with reddish-yellow skin. Hardy, vigorous and productive.
Damson	European	Traditional fruit for cooking and jam; Utah State notes many plums of this type are self-fruitful.
Early Italian	European	Prune-type plum. Hardy in New Hampshire.
Green Gage	European	Very sweet amber flesh; greenish-yellow skin with a red blush. A classic fresh-eating plum.
Italian	European	Prune-type plum.
Mount Royal	European	Yellow flesh and blue skin; good fresh, dried or in preserves. Heavy producer. Rated very good in zone 4 and good in zone 3.
Seneca	European	Listed by Utah State as a good fresh-eating European plum.
Stanley	European	Sweet, fairly dry, pale yellow flesh under blue skin; a prune plum. Good for drying and preserves. Best in southern Minnesota; rated only fair in zone 4.
Alderman	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Sweet, juicy golden flesh under burgundy skin. Large fruit; thinning helps size. University of Minnesota release (1986).
BlackIce	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Deep red flesh with blue-black skin; about 2-inch fruit. Naturally small tree with a weeping shape.
LaCrescent	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Very sweet, juicy yellow fruit with a hint of apricot. Vigorous tree but often a light cropper.
Pembina	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Sweet, juicy yellow flesh under bright red skin. Large, pointed fruit. Very hardy; may survive zone 2.
Pipestone	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Sweet, melting golden flesh; thin bright red skin. Very large fruit. Hardy and copes with dry sites. University of Minnesota release (1942).
Superior	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Very sweet, rich yellow flesh with bright red skin. Large fruit; thinning helps size. University of Minnesota release (1933). Rated good in zone 4, poor in zone 3.
Toka	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Rich, spicy-sweet golden flesh under deep magenta skin. Rated good in zone 4 and fair in zone 3 in Minnesota.
Underwood	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Soft yellow flesh with red skin; heart-shaped fruit. One of the oldest University of Minnesota plum releases (1920).
Waneta	Hybrid (American x Japanese)	Sweet, juicy yellow flesh with red skin. Very hardy; developed in South Dakota in 1913.
AU Amber	Japanese	Red-purple skin with amber flesh. Good tree health rating in Georgia.
AU Producer	Japanese	Dark red skin and red flesh. Tolerant of plum leaf scald.
AU Roadside	Japanese	Dark red skin and red flesh. Tolerant of plum leaf scald; rated very good for tree health in Georgia.
AU Rosa	Japanese	Resistant to plum leaf scald. Auburn University release.
Bruce	Japanese	Large red plum.
Byrongold	Japanese	May have leaf scald problems.
Methley	Japanese	Small to medium fruit; juicy, sweet red flesh under mottled purple skin. Prone to black knot.
Morris	Japanese	Large fruit with firm red to purple flesh.
Ozark Premier	Japanese	Large fruit with yellow flesh and reddish skin.
Ruby Queen	Japanese	Excellent flavor; dark red skin and red flesh. Good tree health rating in Georgia.
Rubysweet	Japanese	Red-bronze skin with blood-red flesh. Very good tree health rating in Georgia.
Santa Rosa	Japanese	Large purplish plum with amber flesh.
Satsuma	Japanese	Round, fairly large fresh-eating plum.
Shiro	Japanese	Round, fairly large fresh-eating plum.
Gulfbeauty	Japanese (low-chill)	Sweet, mild dark reddish-purple flesh. Resistant to bacterial canker; some resistance to leaf scald. University of Florida release.
Gulfblaze	Japanese (low-chill)	Sweet, mild flesh; dark red to purple skin. Disease resistance similar to Gulfbeauty.
Gulfrose	Japanese (low-chill)	Sweet, aromatic blood-red flesh. Moderate bacterial canker resistance; less tolerant of leaf scald.
Spring Satin	Plum-apricot hybrid	Red-black skin with yellow-red flesh. Good tree health rating in Georgia.

Pests to watch for

Plum curculio, Spotted wing drosophila, Peachtree borer, Aphids, Twospotted spider mite, Scale insects, Sawflies (garden sawflies), Eriophyid mites (rust, bud, blister and gall mites), Katydids, Boxelder bugs, Ground squirrels, Granulate ambrosia beetle, Obliquebanded leafroller, Pear sawfly (pearslug, cherry slug), European red mite, Apple maggot, Oriental fruit moth, Cherry fruit fly, Spotted lanternfly, Eastern tent caterpillar, Green June beetle (fig-eater), Leaffooted bugs

Diseases and problems

Brown rot, Black knot, Bacterial spot, Bacterial canker, Powdery mildew, Rust, Iron chlorosis, Mechanical damage (mower, trimmer and tie wounds), Crown gall, Sunscald, Plum pockets, Armillaria root rot, Gray mold (Botrytis)

In the kitchen

Japanese plums are mostly eaten fresh; European plums are eaten fresh or processed, for example dried as prunes (UGA).

Keeping it: Ripen firm plums on the counter in a paper bag, then refrigerate ripe ones and use them within a few days.

Safety: Stems, leaves and seeds contain cyanide-forming compounds (ASPCA), so do not crush or eat the pits.

Pets: Toxic to dogs, cats and horses (ASPCA): stems, leaves and seeds contain cyanogenic glycosides, especially as leaves wilt; signs include brick-red gums, dilated pupils, trouble breathing, panting and shock

Sources

Photo: Photo: Scott Bauer, USDA ARS, Public domain (USDA ARS), via Wikimedia Commons. Photo resized for the web.

Planting dates and advice are general guidance; check with your local Cooperative Extension office for your area.